Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing with Amphu Lapbtsa Pass - 30 Days

Mera and Island Peak Expedition

Both Mera Peak (6,476m) and Island Peak (6,189m) are highly wanted after summits. Even though geographically fairly close together, they are separated by the formidable mountain chain dividing the Hongu and Khumbu Valleys. This expedition provides an opportunity for mountaineers to attempt both peaks, linking them with a crossing of the remote and stunning Amphu Labtsa Pass (5,780m).

Mera Peak is the highest "trekking peak" in Nepal. It is less technical than Island Peak, but summit day is a tough outing, and it's often bitterly cold. Our approach to Mera base camp is via a longer route than most people use, giving you more time to acclimatize. After Mera, you drop down into the Hongu Valley and trek for three days to the base of the Amphu Labtsa. The Hongu Valley is a special place; there is no grazing of animals up here - the base of the valley is at 5,000m - and it is flanked by massive ice-fluted faces on either side. At the head of the valley the glaciated Amphu Labtsa provides a way out, with its crossing being the most technical mountaineering day on the expedition. Weaving your way amongst serac cliffs, the top of the pass is reached in a position of considerable exposure. Many feel that this is the highlight of the expedition. Island Peak's summit appears almost level with you, as you abseil down the far side of the pass and make your way to its base camp. Our expedition utilizes a further high camp on Island Peak, as well as a spare summit day in case of bad weather. The route to the top is steeper than Mera, though nowhere is it too difficult and by the time you are on your way, you are extremely well-acclimatized having spent the previous 11 days above 5,000 meter.

Outline Itinerary
Day 01: Meet and greet in Kathmandu.
Day 03: Fly to Lukla, trek south to Poyan (2,800m)
Day 04: Trek to Pangkongma (2,846m)
Day 05: Trek to Nashing Dingma (2,600m)
Day 06: Trek to Chalem Kharka (3,600m)
Day 07: Trek to Chunbu Kharka (4,200m)
Day 08: Acclimatization day at Chunbu Kharka
Day 09: Descend to Khote in the Hinku Valley (3,550m)
Day 10: Trek to Tangnag (4,360m)
Day 11: Trek to Dig Kharka (4,650m)
Day 12: Ascend to Khare (5,100m)
Day 13: Cross the Mera La (5,400m) to Mera Peak base camp (5,300m)
Day 14: Acclimatization/skills refresher day at base camp (5,300m)
Day 15: Move to High Camp (5,800m)
Day 16: Mera Peak Ascent (6,476m)
Day 17: Descend into the Hongu Valley
Day 18: Trek up the Hongu Valley
Day 19: Camp below the Amphu Labtsa (5,500m)
Day 20: Cross the Amphu Labtsa (5,780m) to Island Peak Base Camp (5,000m)
Day 21: Rest day at Island Peak base camp (5,000m)
Day 22: Move to Island Peak high camp (5,600m)
Day 23: Island Peak Ascent (6,189m)
Day 24: Spare summit day
Day 25: Trek to
Day 26: Trek to Namche.
Day 27: Trek to Lukla.
Day 28: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu
Day 29: At Leisure in Kathmandu
Day 30: Fly home

Trip Cost Includes

  • Airport-hotel-airport pick and drop by private car/van
  • 3 nights sharing twin bed room in 3 star category hotel in Kathmandu, with breakfast basis.
  • Government registered, fluent English speaking and friendly guide and porters.
  • All meals: breakfast, lunch and dinner during the trek.
  • Tea, coffee, cookies and fresh fruits during the trek.
  • Lodge and tented accommodation during the trek.
  • Group first aid kit and water purifier pills.
  • Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu flight and airport taxes
  • All ground transportation during the trip in Nepal.
  • Food, accommodation, salary and insurance of your guide and porters. 
  • Lodge accommodation during the trek and group medical kit
  • Camping equipments and all other gears during the expedition. 
  • Trekking Permit, TIMS Card, Peak Climbing Permit and Garbage Deposit.
  • Government tax, vat and office service charge etc.

Trip Cost Excludes

  • Bar bills, beverages such as coke, fanta, mineral water
  • Hot shower and hot water, laundry, internet, phone calls and toiletries.
  • Personal travel insurance and personal trekking and climbing gear.
  • Rescue operation charge in case of emergency.
  • Advance deposit transfer fee to book your trip
  • Any costs which arise due to a change of the itinerary, because of landslides,

Packing List and Equipment for Langtang Gosainkunda Trek

Footwear

  • A waterproof trekking boot with suitable ankle support that have been worn-in prior to the trek,
  • Trail shoes or trainer or casual shoes, for walking or strolling around(optional)
  • 2-3 Pairs of warm socks for colder areas depending on trekking duration.
  • Gaiters, in case of rain or snow
  • Sandal, crocs or flip flop to take shower and walk around,
  • 2-3 pair of smooth thin wool, nylon or Capilene Liner socks to be worn next to the skin. This reduces the incidence of blisters and hot-spots and makes the outer sock last longer before needing to be changed. They should fit well with your heavyweight socks.

Leg wears

  • Trekking/hiking casual trousers and short, Thermal leggings for colder areas
    Long skirt for women as an alternative to trousers and Waterproof trousers.

Body

  • Selection of hiking/trekking T-shirts, and long sleeved shirts, preferably not cotton
  • Thermal and warm shirts, possibly fleece shirt for colder areas.
  • Fleece jacket or warm wool jumper
  • Hard shell jacket with hood and hard shell pants if trekking in colder months/winter.
  • Windbreaker or waterproof jacket for higher altitudes
  • Down jacket (optional for cold nights and mornings; can be hired in Kathmandu cheaply).
  • Underwear 4-5. Comfortable underwear is essential. Pack both cotton and polyester in case of problems (Friction).

Head/Hands

  • Wool or fleece hat, or balaclava
  • Hat or cap for sun protection while trekking
  • Sunglasses or goggles, genuine UV protection sunglasses preferable
  • Warm gloves
  • Buff and higher and colder place, not very important for this Trek.
  • Large handkerchief/bandana for neck
  • Head lamp/torch with spare batteries.
  • Sun/cold creams,

Personal Trekking Equipment

  • Strong rucksack or large hold all to be carried by porters
  • Day sack to carry valuables such as passport, cash, camera, travel documents personally
  • Plastic bags or stuff sacks to store/separate trekking gear inside your main bag, Personal first aid kit to include essential items, Adjustable 3 section trekking pole
  • 3-4 season sleeping bag, Camera and memory cards, charger, tripod if necessary, towel and toiletries, rain cover for yourself and luggage, multi-purpose hiking pocket knife.

Optional items

  • Binoculars, Books or an eBook, Altimeter, Compass and GPS.
  • Playing cards, backgammon and chess set etc.
  • Tablets or smart phones, there are mobile networks in most trekking areas of Nepal.
  • Pocket trekking map,
  • Small light note books, pen/pencil for journal writing.

For water

  • Two water bottles one liter each is fine or preferably camel bag water bottle. Water treatment tablets: Iodine, Dioxide tablets, Taste neutralizer tablets remove iodine taste if necessary. Vacuum flask and a cup preferably is doing teahouse.

Pee Bottle (Optional) but very useful.
Pee funnel for women (optional) Lightweight urinary director.
Hand/foot warmers (Optional) Recommended if you easily get cold hands and feet 1-3 pairs.

Personal first aid kit (small and simple) Aspirin, Moleskin, Adhesive tape, Band-Aids. Scissor, Blade,

Drugs/medications/prescriptions Climbers should bring Mupirocin (Bactroban) cream, excellent topical antibiotic for scrapes and cuts. Cirprofloxin (Cipro) 500mg tablets for travelers' diarrhea and for urinary tract infections. Loperamide (Lomotil) or Immodium for diarrhea. Acetazolamide (Diamox) 125 or 250mg tablets for alltitude sickness. Ibuprofen (Advil, Motrin) 200mg tablets for altitude headaches, sprains, aches, etc. Excedrin for headaches. Acetaminophen (Tylenol) 325mg tablets for stomach sensitivity.

Necessary Gear for Peak Climbing

  • Harness: A good climbing harness should be light and simple in design, easy to put on and take off with gloves on, with positively foolproof locking features.
  • Crampons: Crampons must fit boots perfectly; steel crampons with anti-balling and ability to toe point positively and safely into ice. The lighter the better – extra weight on your feet is much more strenuous than anywhere else on your body.
  • Ice axe: Ice axe should be versatile and light. A general purpose technical ice axe (T rated) but not too aggressive.
  • Ascender: Ascender or Jamar, a mechanical device used for ascending on a rope; must be suitable to be used with gloves or mittens. Practice using it with thick gloves on again and again.
  • Head Lamp: Multi-LED Head Lamp and spare batteries are essential; we do not recommend single bulb lights due to lower reliability.
  • Karabiners: Minimum 2 locking carabineers, 1 large and 1 small and 4 regular.
  • Rappel device: Figure 8, ACT or similar; be familiar with Munter Hitch as it may save your life if you lose your rappel device (which happens a lot).
  • Trekking poles: Very handy for the approach; adjustable types are the best (preferably with a simple outside locking mechanism).
  • Slings: One 3m(10ft) and three 2m(6ft).
  • Prusik loops: Never hurts to carry a few (e.g. 0.6m and 1.2m), they come in handy in many situations.
  • Masks, hoses, and regulators: Good quality for your safety.
  • Altimeter: ABC watches or more advanced GPS watches will do the trick. Watch for battery life.
  • Climbing helmet: Climbing helmet is essential safety gear for crossing areas under rocks and ice cliffs; light weight is essential.

Again, this is not an exhaustive list but we hope it provides a loose guideline for your preparations. Do as much background research as possible – it never hurts to come over-prepared. And, of course, we are always happy to help so just give us a shout if you have any questions, comments or concerns. Happy preparations!

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client


Kristel de Bruyne,
Belgium

Annapurna Base Camp Trek 2017 Review

We had an amazing 12 day trek to Annapurna Base Camp in April 2017. Our communication upfront with Pradip went very easy and we got some good information. We met up in Kathmandu to make the payment and we left for Pokhara as we want to spend few relaxing days there before starting the trek to Annapurna Base Camp. We met our guide in Pokhara before we leave and began the trek. Our guide did his very best to make sure everything was arranged well! We had an amazing time in Annapurna Base Camp; we would ...

price start from USD 3550 per person

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Trip Facts

  • Max Altitude: 6461m
  • Best Season: Spring and Autumn
  • Accommodation: Lodge & Tent
  • Transportation: Flight to/from Lukla
  • Group Size: Min 2 Pax
  • Difficulty: Strenuous

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