Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing with Amphu Lapbtsa Pass

Both Mera Peak (6,476m) and Island Peak (6,189m) are highly wanted after summits. Even though geographically fairly close together, they are separated by the formidable mountain chain dividing the Hongu and Khumbu Valleys. This expedition provides an opportunity for mountaineers to attempt both peaks, linking them with a crossing of the remote and stunning Amphu Labtsa Pass (5,780m).

Mera Peak is the highest "trekking peak" in Nepal. It is less technical than Island Peak, but summit day is a tough outing, and it's often bitterly cold. Our approach to Mera base camp is via a longer route than most people use, giving you more time to acclimatize. After Mera, you drop down into the Hongu Valley and trek for three days to the base of the Amphu Labtsa. The Hongu Valley is a special place; there is no grazing of animals up here - the base of the valley is at 5,000m - and it is flanked by massive ice-fluted faces on either side. At the head of the valley the glaciated Amphu Labtsa provides a way out, with its crossing being the most technical mountaineering day on the expedition. Weaving your way amongst serac cliffs, the top of the pass is reached in a position of considerable exposure. Many feel that this is the highlight of the expedition. Island Peak's summit appears almost level with you, as you abseil down the far side of the pass and make your way to its base camp. Our expedition utilizes a further high camp on Island Peak, as well as a spare summit day in case of bad weather. The route to the top is steeper than Mera, though nowhere is it too difficult and by the time you are on your way, you are extremely well-acclimatized having spent the previous 11 days above 5,000 meter.